{"id":372140,"date":"2024-09-19T16:26:47","date_gmt":"2024-09-19T15:26:47","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.gaytimes.com\/?p=372140"},"modified":"2024-10-22T16:38:17","modified_gmt":"2024-10-22T15:38:17","slug":"queer-male-fashion-lfw-ss-25-olly-shinder","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.gaytimes.com\/fashion\/queer-male-fashion-lfw-ss-25-olly-shinder\/","title":{"rendered":"Forget &#8216;babygirl&#8217; boys, it\u2019s going to be a dom top summer 2025"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">If the straight boys are exploring a softer masculinity, queer fashion is embracing kinky leathers.<\/span><\/p>\n<pre>WORDS <strong>TOM GEORGE<\/strong>\r\nIMAGES COURTESY OF <strong>FASHION EAST<\/strong><\/pre>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.gaytimes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/FE-Shows_FS2025_2846.jpg\" \/><\/p><p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Every September, around the same time that coffee shops fight to be the first to drop a PSL and <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/people.com\/influencer-caitlin-covington-kicks-off-christian-girl-autumn-8705183\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Caitlin Covington awakens from her slumber<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, TikTok and Instagram gays signal that it\u2019s going to be a <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tiktok.com\/@a_twink_and_a_redhead\/video\/7285427402874899755\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u2018femme top fall\u2019<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. It\u2019s not; according to <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/trends.google.com\/trends\/explore?date=today%205-y&amp;q=femme%20top%20fall&amp;hl=en-GB\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Google Trends<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> at least. Perhaps the queer desire for femme top recognition is a response to the recent universal fawning over straight-identifying <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.voguebusiness.com\/story\/fashion\/what-the-rise-of-babygirl-men-means-for-fashion\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u2018babygirl boys\u2019<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> such as Jacob Elordi, Paul Mescal and Timothee Chalamet. Or, the rise of softer masculine expressions among straight men \u2013 Pleasing pastel nail varnishes, cutesy broccoli perms and preppy sweater vests, all on the biggest DL fuckbois you\u2019ve ever met. Or perhaps, it&#8217;s a desperate attempt by influencers to gain cultural capital by coining a viral seasonal aesthetic. One thing is clear though, in reality many designers have been leaning far from femme energy in their most recent menswear offerings \u2013 think more: wipe-clean leathers, whip-like belts and harnesses over oiled up pecs. Spring Summer 2025 is giving dom top.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Berghain was clearly on the minds of designers this year. For his final collection under the Fashion East programme, Olly Shinder continued to subvert the power dynamics of uniform. The splicing together of 50s boy scout hats with prison guard attire, whips made out of plaited hair, latex finger gloves and leathers with an oil-like gleen, all twisted with the archetypes of porn and fantasy. The characters became increasingly indecipherable from each other. The Berlin nightlife energy was most evident in a look that saw loose cutout panelled shorts merely held up by the straps you\u2019d see on a worker\u2019s overalls, fashioned to allude to a harness. Get you an outfit that goes seamlessly from the building site to the sex club!\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.gaytimes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/FE-Shows_FS2025_3267.jpg\" \/><\/p><p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.gaytimes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/FE-Shows_FS2025_3138.jpg\" \/><\/p><p><em>Olly Shinder at Fashion East ss25<\/em><\/p><blockquote><p>\"Get you an outfit that goes seamlessly from the building site to the sex club!\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote><p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In a similar vein, Maria Koch told <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.vogue.com\/fashion-shows\/spring-2025-menswear\/032c\"><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Vogue<\/span><\/i><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> that her menswear collection for SS24 was inspired by the moment at \u201cBerghain the shutters go up when the sun begins to rise\u201d. Outfits among Maria\u2019s walk of shame \u2013 alongside the guys wearing just office shirts and oversized hoodies, their trousers lost in last night&#8217;s debauchery \u2013 were leather vests, jackets and overclothes with the same easy-clean sheen of the well-trodden mattresses of a dark room floor. New York designer Elena Velez also played with hides in her collection inspired by Americana and old timey Rust Belt gender stereotypes \u2013 the first look of the collection saw a cowboy in leathers less reminiscent of cow hide so much as the ones you\u2019d find in Prowler.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<blockquote class=\"instagram-media\" style=\"background: #FFF; border: 0; border-radius: 3px; box-shadow: 0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width: 540px; min-width: 326px; padding: 0; width: calc(100% - 2px);\" data-instgrm-captioned=\"\" data-instgrm-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/C_0XKfHxE0O\/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading\" data-instgrm-version=\"14\">\n<div style=\"padding: 16px;\">\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"padding: 19% 0;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"display: block; height: 50px; margin: 0 auto 12px; width: 50px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"padding-top: 8px;\">\n<div style=\"color: #3897f0; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 550; line-height: 18px;\">View this post on Instagram<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"padding: 12.5% 0;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;\">\n<div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"margin-left: 8px;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg);\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"margin-left: auto;\">\n<div style=\"width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;\"><a style=\"color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/C_0XKfHxE0O\/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">A post shared by troye sivan (@troyesivan)<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<p><script async src=\"\/\/www.instagram.com\/embed.js\"><\/script><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Ahead of this kinky leather revival was Ludovic de Saint Sernin, whose AW24 collection was inspired by Robert Mapplethorpe, the late 20th century photographer who garnered controversy and censorship with his documentation of the gay BDSM scene covering everything from cruising to fisting and watersports. Ludovic\u2019s collection evolved from looks alluding to the late artist&#8217;s delicate floral photography, to the more seedy. Ringlet lace-up briefs, harnesses and corsets were paired with wet room ready boots, daring butt cleavage trousers and condom tight head caps, all in that same slick gleen we\u2019ve seen across the runways this season.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<blockquote><p>\"That dom energy is making its way from the runway to the bodies of the most brazen celebrities too\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote><p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">That dom energy is making its way from the runway to the bodies of the most brazen celebrities too. As he writhes around the stage of his uber horny Sweat Tour with Charli XCX, leather has become a staple of Troye Sivan\u2019s concert wardrobe. Hyperbranded scally sportswear sits under <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/x.com\/xcxshake\/status\/1836094160589459523\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">studded black chaps<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> or are <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/C_8wt84PN2T\/?img_index=4\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">cinched at the waist with long, dragging, whip-like belts<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> in a similar style to the ones seen on the most recent Jil Sander runway. Elsewhere, Lil Nas X turned up to the MTV VMAs wearing a motochic ensemble comprising white and pink leather slacks with a matching, ab-baring cropped jacket. What added the final detail to the badboy cyclist look was the identity-hiding helmet over his head; the kind you could definitely imagine a DL top insisting to keep on during a hookup.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<blockquote class=\"instagram-media\" style=\"background: #FFF; border: 0; border-radius: 3px; box-shadow: 0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width: 540px; min-width: 326px; padding: 0; width: calc(100% - 2px);\" data-instgrm-captioned=\"\" data-instgrm-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/C_0gf1cx46S\/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading\" data-instgrm-version=\"14\">\n<div style=\"padding: 16px;\">\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"padding: 19% 0;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"display: block; height: 50px; margin: 0 auto 12px; width: 50px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"padding-top: 8px;\">\n<div style=\"color: #3897f0; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 550; line-height: 18px;\">View this post on Instagram<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"padding: 12.5% 0;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;\">\n<div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"margin-left: 8px;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg);\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"margin-left: auto;\">\n<div style=\"width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;\"><a style=\"color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/C_0gf1cx46S\/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">A post shared by \u2606dreamboy. (@lilnasx)<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<p><script async src=\"\/\/www.instagram.com\/embed.js\"><\/script><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">So why are designers embracing a more kinky, dominatrix side with their menswear? If straight men are increasingly attempting to distance themselves from the toxicity and fragility of the ghosts of masculinities past (and present) through the use of softer, more feminine and queerer expressions, then it seems likely that queer fashion, one that by its very name is meant to be disruptive, would evolve too. If straight men are stripping themselves of expressions of dominance, queer people are showing the space in which that energy can exist. As Ludovic <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.vogue.com\/fashion-shows\/fall-2024-ready-to-wear\/ludovic-de-saint-sernin\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">said<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, \u201cMapplethorpe had the audacity to share his fantasy with the world and I think that\u2019s really powerful, because he helped a lot of people, including myself, to really be daring and embody every part of ourselves.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<blockquote class=\"wp-embedded-content\" data-secret=\"QLz1o0MJkO\"><p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.gaytimes.com\/fashion\/lfw-aw24-kink-office-suits-olly-shinder-sinead-o-dwyer\/\">If the economy is tanking, why *not* dress like a dominatrix for the office?<\/a><\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p><iframe class=\"wp-embedded-content\" sandbox=\"allow-scripts\" security=\"restricted\" style=\"position: absolute; clip: rect(1px, 1px, 1px, 1px);\" title=\"&#8220;If the economy is tanking, why *not* dress like a dominatrix for the office?&#8221; &#8212; GAY TIMES\" src=\"https:\/\/www.gaytimes.com\/fashion\/lfw-aw24-kink-office-suits-olly-shinder-sinead-o-dwyer\/embed\/#?secret=3VWgtwwffE#?secret=QLz1o0MJkO\" data-secret=\"QLz1o0MJkO\" width=\"500\" height=\"282\" frameborder=\"0\" marginwidth=\"0\" marginheight=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>If the straight boys are exploring a softer masculinity, queer fashion is embracing kinky leathers. WORDS TOM GEORGE IMAGES COURTESY OF FASHION EAST Every September, around the same time that\u2026<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7434,"featured_media":372150,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"templates\/feature.php","format":"standard","meta":{"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[209],"tags":[644],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v21.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Forget &#039;babygirl&#039; boys, it\u2019s going to be a dom top summer 2025<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"If the straight boys are exploring a softer masculinity, queer fashion is embracing kinky leathers\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.gaytimes.com\/fashion\/queer-male-fashion-lfw-ss-25-olly-shinder\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Forget &#039;babygirl&#039; 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