{"id":359524,"date":"2024-05-13T11:16:40","date_gmt":"2024-05-13T10:16:40","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.gaytimes.com\/?p=359524"},"modified":"2024-06-14T15:26:44","modified_gmt":"2024-06-14T14:26:44","slug":"chema-diaz-jadore-hardcore-interview","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.gaytimes.com\/fashion\/chema-diaz-jadore-hardcore-interview\/","title":{"rendered":"The \u00a310 bootleg tee that helped Chema Diaz tap the queer zeitgeist"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>The Spanish designer&#8217;s bejewelled t-shirts have become a staple for London&#8217;s queer party-goers. He gives GAY TIMES the lowdown on the scrappy story behind their cult status.<\/p>\n<p>WORDS BY\u00a0<strong>JAMIE WINDUST\u00a0<\/strong><br \/>\nPHOTOGRAPHY BY <strong>RODRIGO BRANCO<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.gaytimes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/05\/Photo_02_0160-copy-1.jpg\" \/><\/p><h3><b>Welcome to Queer By Design, a monthly column by Jamie Windust. Here, Jamie profiles emerging designers about the intersections of style, identity and expression and how these factors inform their creative practice.\u00a0<\/b><\/h3>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Many strive to capture the hedonism and freedom that queer folks experience on the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.gaytimes.com\/originals\/gentrification-queer-venues-lgbt-nightlife\/\">dance floor<\/a>. Few do it as well as Spanish-born, London-based designer and DJ Chema Diaz.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Dive into London\u2019s <a href=\"https:\/\/www.gaytimes.com\/fashion\/this-it-couple-is-behind-queer-nightlifes-favorite-genderless-brands\/\">nightlife<\/a> scene and you\u2019ll see his iconic \u2018J\u2019adore Hardcore\u2019 t-shirt stretched across sweaty torsos everywhere you turn at the city\u2019s warehouse parties and basement clubs. A tongue-in-cheek riff off of the aughts \u2018J\u2019adore Dior\u2019 slogan tees from John Galliano\u2019s Dior tenure, the garment was initially a one-off which Diaz printed for \u00a310 before a DJ gig.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But the irreverent energy of Diaz\u2019s tee quickly caught the attention of party-goers, who wanted to know where they could get their hands on one themselves. The organic demand led Diaz to print a small selection for sale \u2013 all of which sold out in a day. Long before brands like Heaven and Praying jumped onto the slogan-mania train, Diaz displayed a cheeky way with words \u2013 expanding his initial tee into a range of vests and t-shirts emblazoned with epithets like \u201cFashion victim\u201d and \u201cF*ck me I\u2019m an immigrant\u201d. Today, the multi-hyphenate is one of the UK capital&#8217;s favourite scene stars.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">To learn more, <em>GAY TIMES<\/em> sat down with Diaz to find out more about his fashion design journey and gain his thoughts on how <a href=\"https:\/\/www.gaytimes.com\/life\/how-can-queer-nightlife-survive-the-coronavirus-pandemic\/\">nightlife<\/a> has changed post-2020.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.gaytimes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/05\/Photo_03_0007-copy.jpg\" \/><\/p><p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.gaytimes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/05\/Photo_02_0023-copy-1.jpg\" \/><\/p><p><em><\/em><\/p><h3><b>Hi Chema! Your work explores partying in such a unique way \u2013 what drew you to want to showcase queer nightlife through your designs and imagery?<\/b><\/h3>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Music and fashion always go hand in hand. I started designing and customising pieces and styling my friends in them to go out to London raves, which helped me kickstart my career as a fashion stylist in London. The dance floor is one of the few remaining spaces for full self-expression, where you can transform into whoever you want to be that night. I have always been very interested in the sociological aspects of costume and identity, person vs persona, and the rave is the perfect stage for your fantasies to come true.<\/span><\/p>\n<blockquote><p>I went to Camden with a USB, \u00a310 and a dream.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<h3><b>Your J&#8217;adore Hardcore t-shirt has become so hugely popular among the queer community here in London. What was the process behind its creation?<\/b><\/h3>\n<p>It came naturally, as Selena Gomez would say. I am a working-class immigrant in London and years ago I was invited to DJ at a Balenciaga party in Paris. I literally had nothing to wear, so I went to Camden with a USB, \u00a310 and a dream. I printed that tee to wear during my set and everyone was like \u201cooh la la la, j\u2019adore le t-shirt\u201d, so I printed 10 more [for sale]. They sold in one day and, well, the rest is history. <span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I am very proud and thankful for the response the t-shirt had. I think it encapsulates the core ethos of my brand: music, fashion and tongue-in-cheek erotica.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.gaytimes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/05\/Photo_02_0160-copy-scaled.jpg\" \/><\/p><p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.gaytimes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/05\/000378000009-copy.jpg\" \/><\/p><p><em><\/em><\/p><h3><b>Back in 2019, you released your BANDIDO collection. At the time, you described it as aiming to &#8220;re-appropriate traditional imagery historically linked to far right movements&#8221;. Would you still say your work is political?<\/b><\/h3>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Coming from an academic background of race and gender studies, I always focus on the sociological and cultural impact of my actions as a designer and company owner. But I think it is also important to relieve pressure from queer artists to always be protesting or fighting for a cause. I don\u2019t think everything should always be politicised, or that we should carry the responsibility of saving each other, or the world. I am advocating for a future in which we can just exist, create, and have fun \u2013 and make money \u2013 whilst doing it. Our existence, self-expression and appearance are already political enough \u2013 let us just have some fun and look hot for a minute. That\u2019s what I intend [with my work], to release weight from my customers shoulders and help them have a great time and love themselves when they look in the mirror.<\/span><\/p>\n<blockquote><p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Queer parties are still the only interesting parties to attend.<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n<h3><b>Your work is mostly closely associated with the club. Have you noticed any changes in how the queer community exists in nightlife spaces since 2020?\u00a0<\/b><\/h3>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">This is something that I have been thinking about deeply over the last few years. Being truly honest, I miss pre-pandemic nightlife. I have the feeling everything has become very sanitised, and very segmented lately. As important as it is to have specific spaces for queer people, I can\u2019t avoid spotting a dissonance between the marketing of queer parties, and the actual dynamics that happen in them \u2013 specially when it comes to the venue\u2019s management and security, and sometimes its attendees.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">How can you call your party a safe space when the security is blatantly queerphobic? How can we feel safe when we\u2019re surrounded by hyperbolic hyper-masculine men off their faces on G? How can we feel invited to a party when the entry fee alone is \u00a325 minimum, plus cloakroom, plus drinks, plus the ride back home?\u00a0<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Queer parties are still the only interesting parties to attend and they will always be the only interesting parties to attend. But especially in London, unfortunately, I have the feeling everything has become very corporate and profit-driven.<\/span><\/p>\n<h3><b>If there was one thing that you&#8217;d want to tell someone who&#8217;s new to your work &#8211; what is it about the brand that makes Chema Diaz unforgettable?<\/b><\/h3>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The power of dreams. I hope that everyone that follows my work and wears my creations feels empowered to dream. You don\u2019t have to go to fashion school to be a fashion designer, you don\u2019t need to have a mezzo soprano range to be a singer. To be an artist, you just need a pen and some paper. Feel free to create, and feel free to make your dreams come true. Don\u2019t limit yourself by your past, your wallet, or your environment. If I could do it, then you can too. Be free and have fun.<\/span><\/p>\n<h3><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Check out more of Chema Diaz\u2019s work <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/iamchemadiaz\/\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">here\u00a0<\/span><\/a><\/h3>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The Spanish designer&#8217;s bejewelled t-shirts have become a staple for London&#8217;s queer party-goers. He gives GAY TIMES the lowdown on the scrappy story behind their cult status. WORDS BY\u00a0JAMIE WINDUST\u00a0\u2026<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6991,"featured_media":359534,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"templates\/feature.php","format":"standard","meta":{"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[209],"tags":[19836,19113],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v21.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>The \u00a310 slogan tee that helped Chema Diaz tap the queer zeitgeist<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"The Spanish designer&#039;s bejewelled slogan t-shirts are a queer clubwear staple. 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