{"id":353979,"date":"2024-03-14T08:00:07","date_gmt":"2024-03-14T08:00:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.gaytimes.co.uk\/?p=353979"},"modified":"2025-01-29T13:42:32","modified_gmt":"2025-01-29T13:42:32","slug":"puerto-vallarta-lgbt-tourism-gentrification","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.gaytimes.com\/travel\/puerto-vallarta-lgbt-tourism-gentrification\/","title":{"rendered":"Does Puerto Vallarta have a gentrification problem?"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Queer tourists flock to Puerto Vallarta, lauded as gay paradise, for its beaches and its hospitality. But are they inadvertently contributing to the gentrification of the city?<\/p>\n<p>WORDS BY <strong>NICOLE GARCIA MERIDA<\/strong><br \/>\nHEADER BY <strong>YOSEF PHELAN<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.gaytimes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/V2-3.png\" \/><\/p><p>There\u2019s a long running myth that it was John Huston\u2019s 1964 film <em>The Night of the Iguana<\/em>, starring Richard Burton, Ava Gardner and Deborah Kerr, that launched the Mexican city of Puerto Vallarta into the international stage. \u201cBut really, that was only part of it,\u201d says Otoniel Sosa Rodriguez, a professor and researcher at the Universidad de Colima.<\/p>\n<p>Puerto Vallarta sits on a strip of coast in the Mexican state of Jalisco, at the foot of the Sierra Madre Occidental, a major mountain range that runs through the Western part of the country.<em> The Night of the Iguana<\/em>, and the drama surrounding its production, did play a part in Vallarta\u2019s publicity back in the 60s. Puerto Vallarta has existed as a tourist destination for over seven decades \u2013 you only need to look at pictures to figure out why. However the film\u2019s publicity and a combination of infrastructure development on behalf of the government kick started the city\u2019s growth.<\/p>\n<p>Today, Puerto Vallarta is described as the San Francisco of Mexico. The city is Mexico\u2019s top destination for <a href=\"https:\/\/www.gaytimes.co.uk\/?s=LGBTQ+tourism+\">LGBTQIA+ tourism<\/a>, especially for gay men. \u201cWe can say it\u2019s LGBTQ+ tourism,\u201d says Otoniel. \u201cBut if we\u2019re being honest it\u2019s more gay men than anyone else really.\u201d Around a third of tourists in Puerto Vallarta are members of the LGBTQ+ community, and they have contributed a massive amount of money to the city\u2019s finances \u2013 tourism makes up for about half of Vallarta\u2019s economy.<\/p>\n<p>But the city wasn\u2019t originally built for the massive numbers of people that descend upon it each year, which has forced it to change to accommodate this huge source of revenue. The landscape of the city started to change as property developers moved to meet demand.<\/p>\n<blockquote class=\"instagram-media\" style=\"background: #FFF; border: 0; border-radius: 3px; box-shadow: 0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width: 540px; min-width: 326px; padding: 0; width: calc(100% - 2px);\" data-instgrm-captioned=\"\" data-instgrm-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/reel\/C2cZZlboL_0\/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading\" data-instgrm-version=\"14\">\n<div style=\"padding: 16px;\">\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"padding: 19% 0;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"display: block; height: 50px; margin: 0 auto 12px; width: 50px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"padding-top: 8px;\">\n<div style=\"color: #3897f0; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 550; line-height: 18px;\">View this post on Instagram<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"padding: 12.5% 0;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;\">\n<div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"margin-left: 8px;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg);\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"margin-left: auto;\">\n<div style=\"width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;\"><a style=\"color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/reel\/C2cZZlboL_0\/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">A post shared by Outmost (@thisisoutmost)<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<p><script async src=\"\/\/www.instagram.com\/embed.js\"><\/script><\/p>\n<p>\u201cThere wasn\u2019t any forced displacement, from what I understand,\u201d says Otoniel, who wrote his PhD dissertation about LGBTQIA+ tourist destinations in Puerto Vallarta, and moved to Vallarta for four years in 2015. \u201cBut there was displacement in the sense that [property developers] offered locals a lot of money for their lots. So these little houses then turned into high rise buildings.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThey\u2019re not skyscrapers like in Mexico City,\u201d Otoniel adds. \u201cBut in 2015 I noticed the amount of construction. And in Puerto Vallarta where the average house has two floors, you notice these concrete mammoths. Construction has slowed now, but only because they\u2019re running out of space.\u201d<\/p>\n<h3>Becoming a &#8220;gay paradise&#8221;<\/h3>\n<p>A lot of work has gone into the cityscape, but queer activists have worked just as hard to turn Vallarta into an environment that is safe for queer people. Puerto Vallarta is recognised as one of the safest destinations from the LGBTQIA+ community in the world.<\/p>\n<p>Groups, including Vallarta\u2019s LGBT Collective, have worked tirelessly to make sure discrimination against queer people doesn\u2019t happen, delivering workshops to police as well as hospitality staff to educate them on inequality.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cIt was hard because some [police] had certain\u2026 archaic concepts about LGBTQ+ people,\u201d says Hector Ramirez Betancourt, founder of Vallarta\u2019s LGBT Collective. \u201cBut we created the guidebook of rules to prevent and eliminate any type of discrimination in Puerto Vallarta. And now Vallarta is the number one tourist destination for gay people.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Hector, known as Teto, was at the forefront of the creation of this rule book, which effectively criminalises discrimination against queer people. It is through tireless activist work, that continues today on behalf of Teto and other Mexican nonprofits, that Vallarta has become safe for all. Just last year MOVii, the Movement for Equality in Mexico, was hosting training sessions for police with the aim of teaching the importance of respecting people\u2019s rights, no matter their gender or sexual orientation to continue making Vallarta an inclusive city.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWe\u2019re at the vanguard of this,\u201d says Teto. \u201cWe are closer to being at the level of some of the more inclusive countries. We did it because we,\u201d the local LGBT population of Vallarta, \u201cwanted to live well. And it\u2019s also helpful, because it makes us number one,\u201d says Teto.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-354258\" src=\"https:\/\/www.gaytimes.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/V1-2-300x175.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"175\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.gaytimes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/V1-2-300x175.png 300w, https:\/\/www.gaytimes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/V1-2-1024x596.png 1024w, https:\/\/www.gaytimes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/V1-2-768x447.png 768w, https:\/\/www.gaytimes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/V1-2-1466x854.png 1466w, https:\/\/www.gaytimes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/V1-2.png 1468w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>That said, \u201cVallarta has always been a friendly city,\u201d he says. And Teto isn\u2019t the only one to say this \u2013 it seems to genuinely be a consensus among everyone I speak to. \u201cThe slogan was that it was the friendliest city in the world,\u201d Teto adds.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cVallarta will always welcome you,\u201d says Adrian Mena Rubin de Celis, who has been living in Puerto Vallarta for 13 years. Adrian, originally for Mexico City, was supposed to live there for a year, but found it impossible to leave. \u201cThis is such a friendly city, it\u2019s so humble. It doesn\u2019t matter who you are or where you\u2019re from or what you have, at some point it\u2019s like we all know each other, support each other, and help each other,\u201d says Adrian.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cFor me, this is paradise,\u201d Teto says. \u201cI live in paradise\u2026 somewhere where there is no issues with discrimination, where we can live freely and in our way without having to hide, or worry about it being late or being dark. No matter the time of day here, there\u2019s never an issue.\u201d<\/p>\n<h3>The problem with development<\/h3>\n<p>Changes to the city skyline brought with them an increase to living costs, and ultimately a pricing out of many locals who relocated to the outskirts of the city. Rent and food costs went up, and as more people moved into the city infrastructure began to fail. The city has embarked on a project to fortify its sewers, but at one point water was running low and pipes couldn\u2019t handle the amount of tourists using the infrastructure.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWhen I lived there in 2015, garbage collection was also a problem,\u201d adds Otoniel.<\/p>\n<p>A significant chunk of Vallarta\u2019s tourism is concentrated in the neighbourhood of Zona Romantica, which translates to Romantic Zone, in the centre of Vallarta. The neighbourhood is crowded with LGBTQIA+ bars, clubs, and hotels. But venues are slowly spreading onto the surrounding neighbourhoods of Conchas Chinas and the centre of Puerto Vallarta.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThere\u2019s also the fact that a lot of people, such as digital nomads, they don\u2019t pay taxes here,\u201d says Otoniel. \u201cThey can have a house here but they won\u2019t necessarily pay taxes, aside from [VAT]. This means that it\u2019s harder to generate new infrastructure, and that complicates things because without new infrastructure, a city will collapse.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cBy no means do I want to just say gay tourism is bad,\u201d says Emma Bailey, a researcher at Universidad Veracruzana who has studied gay tourism in Puerto Vallarta. She\u2019s right \u2013 that\u2019s not the point of the criticism at all. It\u2019s more so to pose a question of, what does this mean for the local queer population? \u201cWe need to look deep into what are those issues,\u201d says Emma.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWithin the gay community itself there\u2019s some issues at hand,\u201d continues Emma. \u201cOne of which is, it\u2019s dominated by cis gay men. There are groups of lesbian women who are very vocal about being women and then there are groups of queer people that are then distinct from but those, but they are definitely in the minority. So that\u2019s another thing to kind of look at in terms of what is the real dynamic going on there.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cAt what point does the gay and<a href=\"https:\/\/www.gaytimes.co.uk\/?s=lesbian+\"> lesbian<\/a> or <a href=\"https:\/\/www.gaytimes.co.uk\/?s=queer+community\">queer community<\/a> stop acting like a victimised community and start acting like a contributor to the community?\u201d asks Emma. \u201cSo really taking a hard look at what does it mean to live in a foreign place or to vacation constantly in a foreign place, in a constructed environment that wouldn\u2019t be there naturally.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Additionally, queer tourists with US or Canadian dollars will always have higher purchasing powers than that of local Mexican queer people, which could exacerbate inequality. \u201cA gay person with resources who can buy whatever they want is not the same as a Mexican local or tourist, who is going to find it pricier,\u201d says Otoniel. \u201cThe question arises of, who is this space really built for?\u201d<\/p>\n<blockquote class=\"instagram-media\" style=\"background: #FFF; border: 0; border-radius: 3px; box-shadow: 0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width: 540px; min-width: 326px; padding: 0; width: calc(100% - 2px);\" data-instgrm-captioned=\"\" data-instgrm-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/C19VlyvIOKF\/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading\" data-instgrm-version=\"14\">\n<div style=\"padding: 16px;\">\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"padding: 19% 0;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"display: block; height: 50px; margin: 0 auto 12px; width: 50px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"padding-top: 8px;\">\n<div style=\"color: #3897f0; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 550; line-height: 18px;\">View this post on Instagram<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"padding: 12.5% 0;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;\">\n<div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"margin-left: 8px;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg);\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"margin-left: auto;\">\n<div style=\"width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;\"><a style=\"color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/C19VlyvIOKF\/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">A post shared by Outmost (@thisisoutmost)<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<p><script async src=\"\/\/www.instagram.com\/embed.js\"><\/script><\/p>\n<h3>Or is development really a problem?<\/h3>\n<p>Despite the criticisms of development, by and large the influx of tourists into Vallarta is seen as a positive thing. Otoniel, Teto, Adrian, Emma \u2013 they all agree, the multiculturalism of Vallarta as a consequence of both temporary tourists and seasonal residents is a positive thing.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cZona Romantica, in old Vallarta, has hotels from the 50s and the 60s,\u201d says Mariano Osores Soler, president of Ancotur, the National Association of LGBT+ Commerce and Tourism in Mexico. \u201cThis is really the epicentre of Puerto Vallarta\u2026 And it was American and Canadian tourists who moved to Vallarta for the winter who helped create this multicultural destination. There\u2019s a lot of foreigners living in Vallarta, which has helped make it a more open minded place than other states in Mexico.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>The American and Canadians in question date back to the boomer generation. They purchased seasonal homes in Vallarta, trading harsh winters for warm beaches. Whether they were the harbingers of something negative is very much up for discussion among the people I spoke to for this piece. Whenever I\u2019ve researched gentrification in Latin American cities, complaints from locals have been loud and clear, plastered everywhere from social media to lamp posts in busy neighbourhoods. But when I was looking for this in Puerto Vallarta, I found myself coming up short.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cOf course it\u2019s going to be more expensive to live in Zona Romantica,\u201d says Mariano. \u201cBut this isn\u2019t the residential zone, where the general townspeople live. I don\u2019t think the local community has been negatively affected at all, because tourism from the LGBT community generates so much money for Vallarta.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>But it\u2019s also not just about the money tourists bring in. \u201cBy and large, [gay tourism to Puerto Vallarta] is a positive because the effect is that it creates a safer environment for everyone,\u201d says Emma.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cMulticulturalism gives you more ways to look at life,\u201d says Otoniel. \u201cThis is a good thing for cities. And when I was living there [in 2018] San Francisco and Vallarta were declared sister cities. This led to a sharing of technology and health resources that didn\u2019t exist. A lot of information about PrEP started being given out, which is now common but back then it wasn\u2019t really.\u201d This wouldn\u2019t have happened if it wasn\u2019t for the queer community\u2019s love and support of Vallarta.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cMaybe I\u2019m speaking from my privilege,\u201d says Adrian. \u201cBut I don\u2019t feel like it has really affected us. At the end of the day, the economic boost is huge. But also it\u2019s really put the LGBTQIA+ scene in the spotlight. We always have parties, events, things going on. I haven\u2019t seen a negative change. The city has gotten more expensive, but it hasn\u2019t become prohibitive in the way Mexico City has. At least I don\u2019t see it that way.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Puerto Vallarta will host hundreds of thousands of people for <a href=\"https:\/\/www.gaytimes.co.uk\/?s=pride\">Pride<\/a> in May \u2013 a lot of hotels are already booked out. Homophobia remains rampant across the world, and across Latin America it remains a glaring issue. So the creation of a haven like Vallarta should be celebrated \u2013 but it\u2019s also fair to raise questions around the sustainability of it for the local community.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cMachismo hasn\u2019t gone away but conditions have improved in general in Mexico,\u201d says Otoniel. \u201cAnd it hasn\u2019t been easy, it\u2019s really been a battle. This process of gentrification is unfortunate. A lot of people wish for the Puerto Vallarta of the past. But these are the dynamics of capitalism. It\u2019s been decades of fighting, of people going to jail for opening businesses that catered to queer people, to turn Puerto Vallarta into what it is now.\u201d<\/p>\n<h3>Follow <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/thisisoutmost\/\">@thisisoutmost<\/a> for more LGBTQIA+ travel content.<\/h3>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Queer tourists flock to Puerto Vallarta, lauded as gay paradise, for its beaches and its hospitality. But are they inadvertently contributing to the gentrification of the city? WORDS BY NICOLE\u2026<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7489,"featured_media":354252,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"templates\/feature.php","format":"standard","meta":{"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[21108,206],"tags":[2463,3921,1161,19734,19434],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v21.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Does Puerto Vallarta have a gentrification problem?<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Queer tourists flock to Puerto Vallarta, lauded as gay paradise, for its beaches and its hospitality. 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