The brand’s Soho location features a special window display by illustrator Ben Jomo, taken from our Work issue.

This Pride 2025, Gay Times have teamed up with illustrator Ben Jomo and Wolf&Badger Soho to celebrate queer-owned brands and LGBTQIA+ creatives, with a window display featuring our 2025 ‘Work’ cover, designed by Jomo, repurposed for a fabulous vitrine at the brand’s central London store.

But we didn’t want to stop short of that. No, no. We wanted to bring the brands to you (yes, you) and show you just how stunning they are. Better yet, we interviewed the makers so you can get to know the talented bunch of queer people behind the curtain.

Ella Douglas 

Ella Douglas is a London-based fashion designer and Central Saint Martins graduate whose work explores queer identity, subculture, and storytelling through bold, sculptural design. Born in Oxford, Douglas fuses industrial materials, intricate detailing, and automotive influences to create pieces that are both tactile and thought-provoking. Her handmade creations reflect deep research and personal experience, blending the past and present in subversive, unapologetic ways. At the heart of her studio practice: her signature trucker hats—crafted in London, and made to stand out.

Take it away Ella…Tell us a little bit about you and your brand!

I’m Ella Douglas, a recent Fashion Design graduate from Central Saint Martins.

My work is defined by bold, unapologetic storytelling that explores queer identities, subcultures, and narrative-based design. I combine sculptural silhouettes with technical innovation, often inspired by automotive aesthetics and intricate detailing. Grounded in both deep research and lived experience, I work with industrial-influenced textiles and tactile embellishments that reflect personal and collective histories.

Tell the readers at Gay Times how being queer informs your brand

When designing, I always view art through a queer lens, allowing each collection to reflect something deeply personal. By drawing inspiration from queer narratives, I’m building a world for my brand that invites others who may see themselves in the work or find a sense of belonging within it.

What do you want to see more of in your industry this Pride?

I want to see real change in the industry, with greater visibility for independent designers who spotlight their communities and bring forward diverse perspectives. It’s equally important that this support extends beyond Pride Month—these voices deserve recognition and celebration all year round.

What does working with Wolf & Badger mean to you?

Working with Wolf & Badger is an incredible opportunity for me as an emerging designer. I’m deeply grateful to be showcased on such a prominent platform. Seeing this kind of support for young designers gives me hope for a more inclusive and promising future in the industry.

Cartography

Tell us about your brand?

Cartography is a NY based jewelry brand that crafts original pieces with a message and a mission. We work exclusively with other small businesses that are as ethically conscious as us. From our silver supply that is mindfully minded in Italy, to our mom-n-pop manufacturers in Rhode Island and NYC, right down to our by-hand assembly line in NYC and Ohio, we champion fair wages and the entrepreneurial spirit.

Additionally, each purchase with cartography helps those who need it most, benefitting the marginalized communities we hold near and dear. Whether through donating items to charitable queer events, including polaroid pictures of queer-empowerment graffiti with every purchase, or annual monetary donations to The Trans Justice Funding Project and Brandi Carlile’s Looking Out Foundation, we strive to create an intimate, compassionate community in the digital shopping world.

How does being queer inform your brand?

Cartography started in the back of a tour bus – but not just any tour bus.

I have traveled with queer icon Rufus Wainwright since 2008 on his world tours and found myself making gifts for friends from tokens I gathered on the road. As my gifting evolved to an actual brand, being a gay man informed my very first collection – IN ALL THE WRONG PLACES, a series of anatomical hearts inspired and named after the men I’ve loved. From there, I never shied away from presenting cartography as an extension of myself. Through imagery, copy and branding, I have always been queer-forward and celebrate the diversity of my community, aspiring to showcase underrepresented segments of the LGBTQ+ rainbow by using black, Asian and trans models as often as possible. While unsuccessful, I still keep my eyes open for persons with disabilities and First Nations talent.

One of my favorite elements of creation is storytelling and teaching others about the richness of my community’s history. This is most apparent in my naming of pieces, in particular

ACT UP: a match stick to light the spark of change and named after ACT UP, the revolutionary grouped founded in 1987 during the AIDS epidemic, ACT UP (AIDS Coalition to Unleash Power) were known for their aggressive and penetrating displays of protest

PAY IT NO MIND: named for Marsha Pay-It-No-Mind Johnson – widely considered to be the trans-godmother of the revolution

FAGGOT and DYKE name plates: my most daring venture, but an offering my community to take back the childhood taunts and reclaim what was once held agaisnt them as their own source of pride – happily the NYTimes recognzied this effort and ran a very tender piece about them.

Rainbow Rider: featuring Iris, the Greek goddess of messengers and rainbows – say no more, huh?

NO WE WITHOUT THE T: our most recent addition made in protest to the Trump administration and JK Rowlings bullying, this is a special piece we designed with Justin Vivian Bond, a legendary NY based cabaret artist and activist, with a portion of proceeds going to the Trans Justice Funding Project.

What do you want to see more of from your industry this Pride?

I would love, as I’ve been trying to do, to see more First Nations and persons with disabilities represented though brand imagery. Everyone deserves to be seen and recognized as beautiful.

What does working with Wolf&Badger mean to you?

It’s been a thrill to have no editing or shrinking of my brand.

I’ve worked with other 3rd party retailers who shy aware and refuse my more controversial, conversational pieces, but you haven’t and it’s a small thrill to be able to presented an uncensored version of my brand.

The Wolf & Badger community gets it. Thank you.

MHARTJewelry

Michael transforms one-of-a-kind gemstones into wearable pieces of art that dare you to embrace your individuality. These unique stones are caged in a silver or gold chain, designed to mimic a spider web surrounding each gemstone. The webbing is both elegant and eye-catching. The gemstones themselves are each unique, with their own colors, patterns, and shapes. No two are alike, making each piece of jewelry truly one-of-a-kind.

Tell us about your brand

MHART Jewelry is a handcrafted jewelry brand rooted in storytelling, spirituality, and individuality. Every piece is made by hand using responsibly sourced gemstones and pearls, often wrapped in my signature “cage” technique — a delicate chain web that holds each stone like a talisman. The brand is deeply personal: it’s about energy, intention, and creating one-of-a-kind jewelry that people can connect with on a deeper level. No mass production — just meaningful pieces that feel like they chose you.

How does being queer inform your brand?

Being queer is at the heart of how I see beauty — fluid, bold, layered, and unapologetic. I don’t design for a gender or a trend. I design for people who want to feel powerful, protected, and seen. MHART is about claiming space through adornment. Growing up queer, jewelry was a way to express parts of myself I didn’t yet have words for. Now, my work is a celebration of that journey — of queerness as transformation, resilience, and magic.

What do you want to see more of in your industry this Pride?

I want to see the jewelry world go beyond rainbow tokenism. Support queer designers year-round. Invest in our visibility, our voice, our artistry. And honestly — more experimental, gender-expansive styling. Jewelry shouldn’t be boxed in by “men’s” or “women’s.” I want to see campaigns that reflect the fluid, bold, and beautifully diverse queer community as it really is.

What does working with Wolf & Badger mean to you?

Wolf & Badger has given MHART a platform to reach people who truly value ethical craftsmanship and independent design. It’s empowering to be part of a global community of creatives who are challenging fast fashion and doing things with more soul. As a queer founder, it’s also meant visibility — having my work shown alongside other diverse, thoughtful makers feels like recognition in a space that often overlooks us.

Jennafer Grace

Limited edition bohemian splendor, handmade in California. Jennafer Grace pieces are carefully designed with confident, eclectic muses in mind. All garments and accessories are hand crafted with the intention of being worn and loved for many years to come. Jennafer Grace is from San Diego, CA. Inspired by outlandish vintage and cinematic style, she believes that people of all ages and sizes deserve to feel beautiful. After working in the vintage & fashion industries, Jennafer realized that the most impactful shapes often lacked important factors: comfort and versatility. It is her mission to create beautiful items that stand the test of comfort, travel and last a lifetime. Jennafer Grace uses comfortable fabrics and linings to create wearable opulence.

Tell us about your brand?

Jennafer Grace Collection celebrates beings of all ages, genders and sizes. We are thrilled to offer universally flattering garments celebrating the joyous language of self expression. Our handmade pieces are created with love in San Diego, CA and have been enjoyed by iconic divas such as Jennifer Coolidge, Paula Pell and more. Our collectors vary across the rainbow of humanity, we are obsessed with seeing how they style and enjoy their pieces. 

How does being queer inform your brand?

Being from California, queer culture is a very normal and favored part of our lives. Along with a shared love for vibrant colors and luxurious textiles, Jennafer Grace Collection connects with our audience through an obsession for opulence and maximalist expression. The movies and music that helped us feel safe being different; tend to help you find your people. We are loud and proud about being unique and looking special. 

What do you want to see more of in your industry this Pride?

Out of all industries, fashion tends to lead the charge on queer rights and progressive issues. That being said, we can still do so much better. You still don’t see much variety in who is hired for high up jobs such as Creative Directors, etc. In all industries, there should be more focus on fundraising for people who lose their safety nets and families for being a little different. 

What does working with Wolf & Badger mean to you?

Wolf & Badger is a leading name in the sustainability movement. They hold their designers and supply chains greatly accountable and only offer pieces of high quality. Wolf & Badger has given us positive growth in brand recognition, and it’s been wonderful to meet the collectors and store teams through pop ups and activations. 

The post Wolf & Badger celebrates Pride with Gay Times appeared first on GAY TIMES.

Meet the kink that subverts in sportswear, and where you can explore it further.

WORDS BY KATIE BASKERVILLE

Sportswear encompasses several different areas of kink and fetish. From the subversion of scally lads’ very specific displays of masculinity and the happy hardcore club scene, to the smell of a sweaty jockstrap and ripe gym rooms, this visceral, multifaceted eroticism is far-reaching, deeply personal and maybe even a little misunderstood. 

Here, we uncover the myriad ways sportswear has made it into our wildest fantasies, from being trampled by a Nike Air-wearing youth to fucking in trackie bottoms.  

Why is sportswear such a turn-on?

“I think sportswear kinks are something which exists within quite interesting social codes of gender and class,” says Anastasiia Fedorova, writer, curator and researcher based in London. 

Fedorova is fresh from the book launch for her debut non-fiction, Second Skin: Inside the Worlds of Fetish, Kink and Deviant Desire, when we speak. She explains that sportswear kinks are broadly linked to the fetishisation of working class stereotypes that can be a turn on of themselves, or because of their link to memory. 

“These experiences tend to be quite universal, as these cultural stereotypes are really widespread,” she tells Gay Times. “I think sportswear, just naturally, is very connected to a particular expression and perception of masculinity, which might be quite ‘traditional'”.

She explains that these visual codes and signifiers can also be connected to a perception of a kind of freedom and physical movement, as well as the idea of energy and strength and dominance. 

Sports are typically considered to be a competitive show of strength, stamina and skill, all traits that have been aligned with masculinity since, well, forever. There’s physical exertion, sweat, passion, aggression and determination woven into the fabric of sportswear’s very identity. So it’s perhaps no wonder, then, that these clothes have been adopted as fashion and identity statements outside of the sporting profession. 

What clothes signify to many is culture, personhood and experience – all the makings of identity. This is compounded further by the fact that our senses are visceral and textured – particularly smell, which can send our brains down memory lane at the drop of a hat. Combined, it’s no wonder that eras that are painted by subcultures like rave music, working class lads of Britain, WWE or professional wrestling, football, etc., are emblematic of people’s sexual vices. 

“When we talk about trainers and sportswear,” Fedrova begins, “I think it’s a very interesting intersection of commodity fetishism and sexual fetishism.” 

Fedrova points out the convergence between the two and how our cultural identity is often linked with our sexual identity. In her book, Fedrova explores this relationship within the context of sneakers, or trainers.

“There are a lot of preconceptions surrounding which type of person would be into this. About how it is a predominantly gay male thing. But while writing the book, I discovered that this is also quite common among women and also for people across the gender spectrum.”

The different kinds of sportswear kinks

As the spectrum for sportswear is broad, there are numerous nuances and particularities to explore. Here is our list of the different kinds of sportswear kinks and their definitions.  

Scally Lads

Think trainers, trackies tucked in socks, popped collars and hoodies. The scally lad encompasses working class male behaviours with overt visual displays. They’re extreme in their visual coding.

Lycra and Spandex

Harking back to the 80s, Lycra and Spandex sportswear clothing remains a common material for wrestling uniforms, cycling gear and more. For some, it might be the touch and feel of the material that makes for a fun experience, or the smell post-workout. It could be the pure, unadulterated and exposed nature of the skin-tight fit. 

Nylon

Similar to the above, Nylon’s textural qualities imbue a sense of eroticism. They may come in the style of sportswear shorts for football or rugby, for example, tops or even tracksuits associated with working-class men.

How can I explore the sportswear kink further?

Fedrova suggests digging deep into what you find arousing about sportswear items. 

“Ask yourself, ‘Why is this happening?'” she says, “I think the only way to understand that you develop a kink is the fact that you find something hot and arousing, sometimes even without understanding that.”

You can, of course, always visit specialist nights such as Fetish Week, where sportswear, amongst other dress codes, is encouraged. There are sportswear-specific nights that celebrate this eroticism, too. Take Jock Party, for example, or Gear Bound London. There’s Fet Club in Bristol, a men-only event. 

For the sapphics, GNCs and wuh-luh-wuh’s, there are plenty of spaces beginning to challenge the gendered notions surrounding sportswear. Read our guide on the One Night sportswear event here if you like the sound of it.

There are also a number of OnlyFans accounts that specialise in making content specifically for this gaze. 

Remember to proceed with consent top of mind, armed with the knowledge that only those who are actively participating in the kink with you are consenting to it.

The post Your complete guide to the sportswear kink appeared first on GAY TIMES.

From the viral ‘Protect the Dolls’ tee, to Tayce closing out the Grete Henriette show, these are the queer highlights of the season…

Things are feeling pretty bleak in the world rn – we don’t need to rehash it, you know what we’re talking about – meaning that when LFW officially descended upon the streets of London, the mood was anything but jubilant. Factor in a reduced schedule and UK’s signature shitty weather and it could have easily been a washout.

However, the smaller, scrappier city out of the ‘big four’ continued to punch above its weight – bringing drama, virality, and a slew of fresh designers. Attending the shows, we couldn’t help but notice just how vibrantly queer the London offering is. The city’s creative lifeblood is the trans and queer folks who push the boundaries of style in the club, at the office and on the streets, and LFW’s latest outing was all about celebrating the communities who make the city what it is.

Keep reading for some of our fave – and queerest – moments from the latest LFW season.

CONNER IVES

A New Yorker living in London, Conner Ives’ eponymous label uses vintage to create throwback designs which deconstruct Americana and pay homage to the women who made him. For AW25, he presented a bold selection of sequins, late aughts silhouettes, and animal print – perfect for cosplaying as one of the OG Real Housewives.

However, our fave moment came when he took his bow while wearing a tee emblazoned with the words “Protect the Dolls”, a statement we can all get behind. The tee will be available for pre-orders from today (26 Feb), with all proceeds going to Trans Lifeline.

GRETE HENRIETTE

We’re long-time fans of Grete Henriette, whose precious garments elegantly drape the body in precious stones and metals and have won fans in the likes of Lil Nas X, Kim Petras and Sam Smith. Her debut LFW show was staged in an East London church, with a live harp rendition by Xiaoqiao soundtracking a parade of heavenly muses including Charley Sayers and Maxim Magnus. Show closing duties were done by Drag Race UK alum Tayce, who strutted in full high priestess cosplay. In Henriette’s world, God is a woman – and a doll, at that. 

FASHION EAST/ OLLY SHINDER

Fashion East darling Olly Shinder has quickly attracted attention with his combination of BDSM, kink and workwear codes, sending nipple-exposing latex tops, buttoned-up uniforms and leather chaps down the runway. Besides making us wonder if we can get away with latex at the office, the styles highlight the ways we carry our queerness into all aspects of life – and highlight the ways we are forced to downplay aspects of our identities in certain spaces. This season, Shinder was uncharacteristically subtle, but there were still nods to the kink scene with leather accents, high-shine anoraks and see-through jumpers beckoning men to start their own ‘free the nipple’ movement.

RICHARD QUINN

Is this the 2019 Met Gala? Because the AW25 Richard Quinn collection was camp. Unfolding within a The Holiday-esque (Cameron Diaz’s version) winter wonderland, models strutted through fake snow in vibrant velvet, splashy florals and grandiose wedding dresses, to the soundtrack of 80s pop. Special kudos to whoever had control of the aux for queueing The Pete Shop Boys.

SINÉAD O’DWYER

Another LFW designer who should audition to do the costuming for Kinky Boots the musical, Sinéad O’Dwyer is known for her reinterpretation of kink – from ‘shibari’ leggings, to cutouts and suspender belts. Our fingers are crossed for her to come out with a high fashion strap-on harness next season…

DI PETSA

A proponent of divine femininity, Di Petsa’s wetlook dresses and celebration of, well, female wetness has made her a London fashion darling. This season, she clearly set herself up for virality, tapping Ayra Starr for a genuinely mesmerising catwalk appearance and arranging for a model to kiss an onlooker who was sat front row. Our fave bits, however, were all about overt queerness of the show. From bicon Mia Khalifa walking in the kind of ‘plunging’ dress that could spark a thousand Daily Mail headlines to a female model’s crotch being covered in lipstick kisses (I guess she got lost via La Camionera?) there was plenty for the girls, gays and theys to enjoy.

CHET LO

Chet Lo’s iconic spiky knitwear became an instant cult classic since he first showed with Fashion East back in 2022. For his AW25 offering, the designer unveiled fun and flirty menswear – from a spiky short-sleeve top and patterned tie over a shirt, to a non-chalant scarf – that reminded us of the joy and playfulness which is so often missing in (cis, straight) male wardrobes. We also enjoyed Lo gracing the catwalk for his end-of-show applause, where he didn’t so much as bow but catapult himself into the air, peace sign at the ready.

The post Your cheat sheet to the queerest moments from LFW appeared first on GAY TIMES.

 Looking for the perfect gift for a queer work husband? A throuple? A baby lesbian? We’ve got you covered. 

WORDS AND CURATION BY TOM GEORGE
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH PINTEREST

Mariah Carey is defrosting as we speak. Androgynous gingerbread people are being baked by the batch. Dads up and down the country will be fighting to get the last Mean Girls Bratz dolls on eBay for their young daughters and twenty-something gay sons. And you know what that means: the holidays are soon upon us! 

GAY TIMES x Pinterest gift guides

For many, queer allyship is limited to sharing an infographic or commenting fire emojis on their fit pics. But it’s time to step things up…this festive period, we want gifts! And luckily, in collab with Pinterest, we’ve tapped our own queer community for the lowdown on what they’d actually want this December.

Scroll below for the full details of our shoppable gift guides with Pinterest and some much-needed hints on what to buy your queer friends this XXXmas season (keep reading, your LGBTQIA+ besties will thank you later). 

Gifts to show allyship to queer friends

If you want to support a queer creative then wrap up a copy of Jason Okundaye’s Revolutionary Acts or Alim Kheraj’s Queer London. If you’re aiming to show your appreciation for your LGBTQIA+ friends (Pride is 365 days a year, after all!), add some Byoma skincare, an Earl of East candle or Urania’s Queer Magic fragrance to your basket. And if you want to win over their approval with your impeccable tastes then fork out for a pair of Margiela Tabis and the popular Marc Jacobs Oz-inspired tote bags. 

Shop here. 

Our Pinterest gift guides have goodies for all within the LGBTQIA+ community, but if you’re looking for something a tad more specific, something that truly speaks to the non-binary friend or queer work husband in your life, then we’ve found the perfect treats for them too, read on! 

Gifts for your queer work husband 

Every morning he lights up your work day, strolling in half an hour late with an iced oat latte with a shot of vanilla in one hand and a Luar Ana bag that barely fits his Macbook in the other. He’s had a bit of a Brat Summer… and Brat Fall, but even Charli is ready to call the party girl life quits now and he’s looking for some new aesthetics. One that’s a bit more demure. What says, if a finance bro slayed? A double collar shirt from Jordanluca will surely stand out in the boardroom and a pair of Martine Rose for Clarks Oxfords, or the new MM6 spliced Dr Martens. His desk could do with a makeover but nothing a new plant from Beards + Daisies can’t fix. Switch out his staplescore stationary for a Miu Miu notebook and D&G highlighters. Douse him in pheromones (DS & Durga’s Steamed Rainbow scent) and make his morning coffee in a hilariously unchic Drag Race mug adorned by a quote from a drag queen so niche, it’s sure to be clocked by the other single gays in the co-working space. 

Shop here. 

Gifts for a throuple who just moved in together

One, two, three, what do you get Peter, Paul and Mary? Your throuple besties are taking the next step and are getting a place together! But kitting out a house for two is difficult enough. Where do you find a bed big enough for three? A his, hers and theirs vanity? What book shelf could carry all three sets of these queers collections of A Court of Thorns and Roses? And after all that Fortnum and Masons red wine bottle for three is only available for Valentines! Le Crueset’s 40cl cast iron crock pot should be enough space to make a cassoulet pour trois. Laqik offers a lovely and space-frugal triangular table for family dinners; set it with Alighieri’s totem devotion cutlery and blessings will be bestowed to really turn this house into a home. Finish off your house warming hamper with the luxe Anthropologie zaire agate cheese board, a triple set of Earl of East torno candles, some art from queer homefluencer Lone Fox, and a copy of non-monogamy psych bible Polysecure. After all, living with one partner is hard, let alone two! 

Shop here. 

Gifts for the labelless Gen-Z TikToker

Like [redacted], [redacted] and all the other curly haired twinks, he’s not labelling his sexuality and that’s okay! He doesn’t have to label himself for anyone. He does need a lesson in queer culture though because when he told you he discovered this “retro” queer movie – Pride (2014) – that he watched in 52 parts on TikTok, you almost had a nervy b. A copy of James Baldwin’s Giovanni’s Room wouldn’t go amiss. Naturally, he went to the Sweat Tour, and so an abstract bowl from Troye Sivan’s Tsu Lange Yor, a pair of red Puma Speedcats and pieces from some it boy brands like ERL, SS Daley and Ludovic De Saint Sernin will briefly win over his ever decreasing attention span. He’s been trying to get you to drink this trending Diet Coke and pickle juice drink Dua Lipa promoted, and you relent… as long as it’s made with the spiced Pickle House concoction at Selfridges and followed with a chaser spritz of Selahatin’s eau d’extract oral. If that’s not enough to earn you some rizz, a JW Anderson hedgehog clutch, filled with Pleasing by Harry Styles nail varnishes, will surely do the trick. 

Shop here. 

Gifts for your Boygenius-loving non-binary friend

“You okay, babe?”, you ask, peeking around the door at your friend who usually thrives within the darker, moodier months. “You’ve barely touched your copy of Brainwyrms by Alison Rumfit”. If a new and brooding song from Ethel Cain is not enough to ironically boost their serotonin, perhaps the new I’m Sorry by Petra Collins collection or the Simone Rocha embellished Crocs are. You know just the fix! You lift them out of bed and dress them in Dilara x Heaven by Marc Jacobs, with a big chunky crucifix from The Drays and a cutesy Leo Costelloe bow necklace. Then, you light a witchy Vyrao incense stick and chant lines from Tish Weinstock’s How To Be Goth so that they can be anointed by the divine spirits (Boygenius) and brought back to the dark side. 

Shop here. 

Gifts for the baby lesbian that loves Chappell Roan

She may have only heard of Chappell Roan after “Good Luck Babe!” but she’s learning! She’s a Baby Lesbian™ and she has some catching up to do. First things first: carabiners. Yes you could get a gorpy set from the local camping store but a kitsch accessory or one of the leather belted kilts from Chopova Lowena is far more chic. Next is herstory, everything femme queer from Virginia Woolf to Bottoms. Finally, you play her Down The Drain by Julia Fox so she can perfect that vocal fry, tie those Ramsey Wednesday platform Docs around her ankles and throw on a pink cowgirl hat and switch out those acrylics for an eight-set of short gel nails in pastels. Our girly is H-O-T-T-O-G-O! We couldn’t be more proud. 

Shop here. 

The post Put the white tube socks down! Here’s what to actually get your queer friends this Christmas appeared first on GAY TIMES.

If the straight boys are exploring a softer masculinity, queer fashion is embracing kinky leathers.

WORDS TOM GEORGE
IMAGES COURTESY OF FASHION EAST

Every September, around the same time that coffee shops fight to be the first to drop a PSL and Caitlin Covington awakens from her slumber, TikTok and Instagram gays signal that it’s going to be a ‘femme top fall’. It’s not; according to Google Trends at least. Perhaps the queer desire for femme top recognition is a response to the recent universal fawning over straight-identifying ‘babygirl boys’ such as Jacob Elordi, Paul Mescal and Timothee Chalamet. Or, the rise of softer masculine expressions among straight men – Pleasing pastel nail varnishes, cutesy broccoli perms and preppy sweater vests, all on the biggest DL fuckbois you’ve ever met. Or perhaps, it’s a desperate attempt by influencers to gain cultural capital by coining a viral seasonal aesthetic. One thing is clear though, in reality many designers have been leaning far from femme energy in their most recent menswear offerings – think more: wipe-clean leathers, whip-like belts and harnesses over oiled up pecs. Spring Summer 2025 is giving dom top. 

Berghain was clearly on the minds of designers this year. For his final collection under the Fashion East programme, Olly Shinder continued to subvert the power dynamics of uniform. The splicing together of 50s boy scout hats with prison guard attire, whips made out of plaited hair, latex finger gloves and leathers with an oil-like gleen, all twisted with the archetypes of porn and fantasy. The characters became increasingly indecipherable from each other. The Berlin nightlife energy was most evident in a look that saw loose cutout panelled shorts merely held up by the straps you’d see on a worker’s overalls, fashioned to allude to a harness. Get you an outfit that goes seamlessly from the building site to the sex club! 

Olly Shinder at Fashion East ss25

"Get you an outfit that goes seamlessly from the building site to the sex club!"

In a similar vein, Maria Koch told Vogue that her menswear collection for SS24 was inspired by the moment at “Berghain the shutters go up when the sun begins to rise”. Outfits among Maria’s walk of shame – alongside the guys wearing just office shirts and oversized hoodies, their trousers lost in last night’s debauchery – were leather vests, jackets and overclothes with the same easy-clean sheen of the well-trodden mattresses of a dark room floor. New York designer Elena Velez also played with hides in her collection inspired by Americana and old timey Rust Belt gender stereotypes – the first look of the collection saw a cowboy in leathers less reminiscent of cow hide so much as the ones you’d find in Prowler. 

 

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Ahead of this kinky leather revival was Ludovic de Saint Sernin, whose AW24 collection was inspired by Robert Mapplethorpe, the late 20th century photographer who garnered controversy and censorship with his documentation of the gay BDSM scene covering everything from cruising to fisting and watersports. Ludovic’s collection evolved from looks alluding to the late artist’s delicate floral photography, to the more seedy. Ringlet lace-up briefs, harnesses and corsets were paired with wet room ready boots, daring butt cleavage trousers and condom tight head caps, all in that same slick gleen we’ve seen across the runways this season. 

"That dom energy is making its way from the runway to the bodies of the most brazen celebrities too"

That dom energy is making its way from the runway to the bodies of the most brazen celebrities too. As he writhes around the stage of his uber horny Sweat Tour with Charli XCX, leather has become a staple of Troye Sivan’s concert wardrobe. Hyperbranded scally sportswear sits under studded black chaps or are cinched at the waist with long, dragging, whip-like belts in a similar style to the ones seen on the most recent Jil Sander runway. Elsewhere, Lil Nas X turned up to the MTV VMAs wearing a motochic ensemble comprising white and pink leather slacks with a matching, ab-baring cropped jacket. What added the final detail to the badboy cyclist look was the identity-hiding helmet over his head; the kind you could definitely imagine a DL top insisting to keep on during a hookup. 

 

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A post shared by ☆dreamboy. (@lilnasx)

So why are designers embracing a more kinky, dominatrix side with their menswear? If straight men are increasingly attempting to distance themselves from the toxicity and fragility of the ghosts of masculinities past (and present) through the use of softer, more feminine and queerer expressions, then it seems likely that queer fashion, one that by its very name is meant to be disruptive, would evolve too. If straight men are stripping themselves of expressions of dominance, queer people are showing the space in which that energy can exist. As Ludovic said, “Mapplethorpe had the audacity to share his fantasy with the world and I think that’s really powerful, because he helped a lot of people, including myself, to really be daring and embody every part of ourselves.”

If the economy is tanking, why *not* dress like a dominatrix for the office?

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Levi’s latest Pride collection takes inspiration from queer “Rainbow Rodeos” which originated in Nevada in the 1970s. GAY TIMES meets three queer creatives embodying this unapologetic spirit today. 

WORDS MEGAN WALLACE
PHOTOGRAPHY ASAFE GHALIB 
CREATIVE DIRECTION AND FASHION UMAR SARWAR
ART DIRECTION JACK ROWE 
HAIR JASON GOH 
MAKEUP KAREEM JARCHE 
PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT JOE HUNT, SIMEON ASENOV 
FASHION ASSISTANT PRIYA NICHOLAS 
ALL CLOTHING FROM LEVI'S RAINBOW RODEO PRIDE COLLECTION 2024

For Pride 2024, Levi’s brand is celebrating queer joy through self-expression with a collection inspired by LGBTQIA+ rodeo culture. Western wear is part of the Levi’s DNA, and the brand’s Pride 2024 collection takes inspiration from queer “Rainbow Rodeos” that originated in Nevada in the 1970s. Pulling graphics and influences from vintage Levi’s pieces and archival posters then adding some glitz – rhinestones, copper thread, marbled hardware, gold-coated denim and more – the collection includes an extensive assortment of tops, bottoms and accessories. 

From the Cropped Muscle Tank and 517™ Bootcut Jeans to the Liberation Western Trucker and matching 501® ’93 Cut-Off Shorts, Western-inspired embroidery and rainbow colouring give the collection a cohesive and euphoric rodeo look. Featuring reversible styles and head-to-toe fits, this is a collection designed to mix, match and make all your own. 

GAY TIMES spoke to three queer trailblazers serving “Rainbow Rodeo” today. 

Hidhir Badaruddin

Originally from Singapore, photographer Hidhir Badaruddin is challenging the underrepresentation of queer, Asian folks both behind and in front of the camera. 

How would you describe your creative practice? 

I am a Southeast Asian queer photographer from Singapore, based in London. My work is a soft, intimate exploration of queerness and masculinity. 

The Levi’s Pride collection takes inspiration from the queer “Rainbow Rodeos” that originated in Nevada in the ‘70s. What does “Rainbow Rodeo” mean to you?

When I first thought of this, I really thought of colourful horses and ponies. It made me think of My Little Pony, which was everything to me growing up. I was that kid in the toy store that would be in the ‘girls’ aisle, the pink aisle. I’ve always known that I was quite different. I didn’t gravitate towards ‘boys’ toys. When I think of “Rainbow Rodeo”, I think of colourful, camp ponies. I think that correlates to how we as queer people present ourselves, adorning our hairstyles or our outfits.

The Levi’s Pride collection queers the codes of western wear through glitz and rainbow colours. How does style facilitate your self-expression?

Accessories and colours are very important to me. I like to be fun and elegant at the same time. I love little details, like getting my nails done or having fun prints and patterns in my outfits. That’s how I tap into my self expression.

Do you have any words of advice to fellow queer creatives on how to live their best and boldest life?

Be unapologetically yourself. Uplift your community. And don’t forget the battles of the people that came before you. We live in a time of division and I feel like uplifting one another as we make our way to our destinations as queer creatives is important. 

MUNYA 

Born in Zimbabwe and raised in Hull, model and dancer Munya embodies radical creativity in each area of her multifaceted career. 

How would you describe your creative practice? 

Being the most creative being I can fathom. That usually includes modelling, dancing, being an active member of the ballroom scene, and includes honing in all the creativity I’ve acquired from fashion, and from other scenes, into one. 

The Levi’s Pride collection takes inspiration from the queer “Rainbow Rodeos” that originated in Nevada in the ‘70s. What does “Rainbow Rodeo” mean to you?

I’ve been trying to find a more precise definition for myself and “Rainbow Rodeo”, but I think giving country and rodeo a queer perspective. It’s an element of flipping the masculinity of [rodeo] and reversing it. 

The Levi’s Pride collection queers the codes of western wear through glitz and rainbow colours. How does style facilitate your self-expression?

Style allows me to tap into the mood I’m trying to express in a moment in time. So from this collection, I can see elements of metal, of denim, big hair, big hats and fun accessories.  A lot of my personal style is very expressive.

Do you have any words of advice to fellow queer creatives on how to live their best and boldest life?

Stop caring about what people think! I really need to just be blunt with it. At the end of the day, we’ve got one life to live. We’ve got to do things for ourselves and our communities and leave this world a little bit better than we found it.

WET MESS

Drag performer, movement director and artist, Wet Mess doesn’t just challenge convention – they obliterate them. Catch their boundary-breaking show Testo at the Edinburgh Fringe from 11th – 15th August. 

How would you describe your creative practice? 

Wet Mess is a wet mess, a drag and dance artist. 

The Levi’s Pride collection takes inspiration from the queer “Rainbow Rodeos” that originated in Nevada in the ‘70s. What does “Rainbow Rodeo” mean to you?

“Rainbow Rodeo” makes me think, ‘This ain’t my first time at the rodeo’. I have giddy-upped, yeehawed before. But first rodeos, questioning rodeos, confused rodeos, shy rodeos, disabled rodeos, Black and Brown rodeos are always welcome – everybody fills their cowboy boots over time.

The Levi’s Pride collection queers the codes of western wear through glitz and rainbow colours. How does style facilitate your self-expression?

Misogyny means we underestimate the power of clothes, make up and putting on silly little outfits. I love wearing suits on stage and bringing a professional business aesthetic to a DIY queer space. It feels like a beautiful critique of British white patriarchy. ‘Smart’ clothing always felt oppressive and restrictive to me so it feels good to reclaim it and make it overtly gay.

Do you have any words of advice to fellow queer creatives on how to live their best and boldest life?

Whatever you can’t stop doing is what you should be doing. Listen to the tiny voice in your head that says ‘oh maybe that could be fun’ then feed her all your chips and read him a bedtime story until they completely take over. Be slow and enjoy the process, thinking and feeling is the future, tenderness can be transformative. 

Shop Levi’s Rainbow Rodeo collection here

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The latest Calvin Klein Pride campaign embodies the joyful, confident energy of the LGBTQIA+ community.

Calvin Klein’s 2024 This Is Love campaign has launched, starring actor Cara Delevingne and actor and singer Jeremy Pope.

Shot by photographer Gordon von Steiner, the campaign images show Cara and Jeremy embodying the joy and exuberance of the community while wearing the brand’s 2024 Pride collection.

But it doesn’t stop there. The campaign video features Cara and Jeremy lip-syncing for their lives to Crystal Waters’s iconic anthem “100% Pure Love”. Joining them are models and dancers Stella Maxwell, Greta Hofer, Tinglei Liu, Monet Lauren, Charlie Knepper, Vinson Fraley, Janick Heilijgers, Diego Pasillas and Mauro van de Kerkhof.

Collectively, this cast channels euphoria, strength and LGBTQIA+ solidarity through the expressive nature of dance and via displays of confidence and self-love.

The 2024 Pride collection which can be seen throughout the campaign infuses classic Calvin Klein underwear and apparel silhouettes with a multicolour dose of Pride. New Intense Power underwear styles are enlivened with a bold, limited-edition logo waistband designed with a bright rainbow gradient.

Calvin Klein’s signature Cotton Stretch and Modern Cotton underwear styles are updated through a range of bold colourways. The Monogram Logo tee and tank feature Calvin Klein’s signature monogram in a vibrant seasonal gradient print.

And it’s not just all about beautiful faces and beautiful clothes – the brand gives back! Calvin Klein supports NGOs focused on LGBTQIA+ equity and safety at the global, national and local level. This year so far, they have committed over $240,000 to organisations including its hero partners ILGA World and Transgender Law Center. In addition to financial donations, Calvin Klein partners with these organisations to provide the company and associates worldwide with resources and insights that empower its teams to be better advocates and allies.

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In partnership with Sunglass Hut, we speak to three LGBTQIA+ influencers to discuss how they channel their queerness through style, sunnies and colourful accessories. 

WORDS BY ZOYA RAZA-SHEIKH
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH SUNGLASS HUT

Fashion is integral to self-expression — it’s a medium that allows us to present our personalities, interests and identities in a way that makes us feel bolder and better about ourselves. From quirky fits to experimenting with coloured accessories, style is the perfect way for the queer community to showcase themselves, unapologetically.

This year, we’re continuing our partnership with Sunglass Hut; a brand committed to supporting and uplifting our community. Shiraz Dejbakhsh, a London-based creative, is a fan of androgynous fashion and uses accessories to accentuate their identity: “My favourite Sunglass Hut shades in yellow epitomises my vibrant personality and excitement for the forthcoming summer season. With longer days and sunnier evenings, yellow makes me feel warm as I explore the streets of London.” Alongside their favourite shades, Shiraz has found their sunglasses a perfect “subtle” extension of how they like to present their queerness. “I appreciate how a seemingly simple accessory can profoundly enhance the character of an outfit, often instilling a sense of confidence,” they explain.

For Spanish make-up influencer and TikToker Emilio Miralles, style is substance and all about feeling confident. “Every day feels different for me,” he says. “Somedays I feel classy with lipgloss and the classic Ray-Ban and for some others I’m more of a “moderna de Madrid” with my dyed brows and the blue reflective Oakleys! And that’s a vibe! Blue gives me the confidence to make a statement with every part of my outfit, even if we’re going shopping, or on a simple coffee run” 

Sunglasses help Emilio show off his best looks. “Sunglasses give me that “who’s that chick” vibe when I’m walking down the street in a miniskirt feeling like a diva — and what screams DIVA more than a pair of cute sunglasses?” he laughs. “It’s more than just feeling like a diva and empowered, It’s about being someone your younger self would have admired, someone confident, with no fear of standing out and, most importantly, with no shame of who they are.”

Brooklyn illustrator and art director Shanée Benjamin’s favourite Sunglass Hut shade is purple – a tone which boldly embodies her personality is a favourite colour. “Purple glasses add a bit of pop and pizazz to the face! I love the reflection of the colours and the simplicity of the frame!” she says. As for how she likes to represent her queerness, sometimes less is more: “For me, statement glasses are a great way to add personality and experiment with which styles fit you! It’s always a fun surprise trying on new styles!”

Now, with Pride Month upon us, there’s no better time to find the right shade of you. GAY TIMES and Sunglass Hut believe in celebrating queerness, regardless of how it’s framed. So, get ready, get glam and find the shades that make you feel like your emboldened queer self on Sunglass Hut. 

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From Hari Nef to Dan Levy — here are some of the winning looks from fashion’s night out.

WORDS BY MIKELLE STREET

For so many events, the red carpet is the hearty appetizer. It whets your appetite but serves largely as a kicking off point for some awards show where newsworthy things happen. For the Met Gala, however, the red carpet is the main dish for all intents and purposes. Yes, there’s a dinner and program once the celebrities get inside, but no one is writing about that. Everyone wants to talk about what’s “on theme,” and if you ask me, what would have made Andre Leon Talley (God rest his soul) sigh an appreciative “That’s how you do it.”

This year, the exhibit is “Sleeping Beauties: Awakening Fashion,” while the red carpet theme is “The Garden of Time.” The theme is based on a short story in which a man must cut a crystalized flower a day to keep away impending doom, but in practice means a hell of a lot of florals — as well as a handful of archival looks (aka “Sleeping Beauties”). 

We would be remiss to not call out the way co-chair Zendaya and her image architect Law Roach did what needed to be done with two looks on the carpet: One was a Maison Margiela remake of a Christian Dior couture look from 1999 and the other was an actual Givenchy couture look from 1996. But for the purposes of our list tonight, let’s talk about the LGBTQs!! Only!

 

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1. Colman Domingo 

Going to kick this off with one of my personal favorites. With his first press tour as a proper leading man, Colman’s fashion has been applying pressure at each and every opportunity. And while I didn’t expect him to let up now, I also didn’t expect him to call in the hot New York City-based menswear designer Willy Chavarria. 

The look kept with Chavarria staples: voluminous trousers taking on a slight feminine sexuality with its satin flutters, as well as the exaggeratedly peak lapel. The cape, according to Domingo, was a nod to both Andre Leon Talley and Chadwick Boseman who were both fond of the accessory. The ability to pull it all off and look on theme without veering into costume territory requires true skill. (Thanks, bouquet of lilies.) 

 

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A post shared by Jordan Roth (@jordan_roth)

2. Jordan Roth

On that note, I honestly don’t know if I think Jordan Roth looks costumey or not. And honestly I don’t care. The Broadway producer has developed a reputation of going all in on fashion all the time. It is going to be drama, it’s going to be divisive, and if there’s one place you can and should make those choices, it’s at the Met Gala.

The theme called for a garden and Roth gave that exactly in a custom couture look from Valentino by Pierpaolo Piccioli. If we are being frank, it gives RuPaul’s Drag Race season 16 Flower Power runway. But why not? If anything, it should secure the fashion stalwart a guest seat on an upcoming season. 

Dan Levy in Loewe at the MET GALA. More red carpet later on our site. #MetGala pic.twitter.com/uzOEOedZCw

— Tom and Lorenzo (@tomandlorenzo) May 6, 2024

3. Dan Levy

Mr. Levy opted for what I am going to graciously assume is an intellectual take. Year after year there are online groans about men wearing “just another black suit” to the Met Gala. Where’s the excitement? Where’s the theme?! These are the questions people have. Levy’s Loewe suit — which starts from the top as a run-of-the-mill suit before ombréing into a floral print — feels like a wink to that critique. The ombré is not a print but an extremely intricate work of caviar beading we saw at fashion week earlier this year.

It certainly isn’t as gaggy or gasp-inducing like, say, his decision to wear literal art by David Wojnarovicz a few years ago. But hey, it’s not just a black suit either. 

So happy for Queen Latifah 🥹 pic.twitter.com/CNeUDWlNIH

— Cowboy Robert (@rmlundyjr) May 7, 2024

4. Queen Latifah & Eboni Nichols

Both by Thom Browne, Latifah had a sequined dress with Birds of Paradise embellishments, while Eboni wore a plaid off-the-shoulder coat dress with patent leather platform stilt shoes (Cynthia Erivo also wore a pair). They’re the epitome of chic. While I love Queen Latifah until the end of time, she was slightly upstaged by her partner Eboni Nichols and that’s not a bad thing. 

 

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5. Hari Nef 

Hari Nef was also dazzled in a custom white dress with iridescent paillettes from H&M, featuring an oversized bow on the back with a massive train. There was something that felt so Barbie about the look. Maybe it was the little crystals that twinkled from the perch in her hair. Maybe it was just Hari being Hari. But whatever it was, it all just worked.

The post 5 favorites from the 2024 Met Gala red carpet appeared first on GAY TIMES.

Get to know the Institute of Digital Fashion, the architects of a new digital culture with diversity and inclusivity – and zero tech bros – at its heart.

WORDS BY JAMIE WINDUST
HEADER IMAGE IODF TEAM MEMBERS – NOOR DHANJU, PARKER GIBSON, IODF CO-FOUNDER AND CEO LEANNE ELLIOTT YOUNG, IODF CO-FOUNDER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR CATTYTAY WEARING 001 IODF COLLECTION

Welcome to Queer By Design, a new monthly column by Jamie Windust. Here, Jamie profiles emerging designers about the intersections of style, identity and expression and how these factors inform their creative practice. 

Helmed by Leanne Elliot-Young and Catty Tay, The Institute of Digital Fashion (IoDF) are self-professed “architects of a new digital culture”, with their sights set on creating a world that “utilises digital advances to drive inclusivity and diversity”. Working with brands such as Prada and Nike, the institute creates bespoke creations by manually adapting fabric properties – creating garments which truly defy convention.

In an era when tech bros reign supreme, this queer-led collective have disrupted the digital world and brought this subversive energy to the upper echelons of the fashion world. They have multiple  ‘world firsts’ under their belts, including creating the first-ever red carpet NFT (Non-Fungible token) ensemble at the British Fashion Awards,  as well as producing the first ever non-binary digital double avatar with Daz3D. At the 2023 Oscars, they brought their IRL X URL activation to the red carpet, dressing Bailey Bass in an eco-conscious digital garment inspired by Zac Posen

If that wasn’t enough, through their free-to-access IRL X URL academy, they are weaving inclusivity into the digital fabric of the future; ensuring that the tools and resources they use in their design process are available to all and flattening hierarchical structures of production in the process. 

As Leanne and Catty sat down to speak with GAY TIMES about their work, we unpacked their radically inclusive vision and the interplay of digital and the physical in their work. 

When working with designers, or designing yourself – what is the first step to creating digital fashion? 

Conceptualisation stands as the cornerstone of digital fashion creation. It’s about envisioning the idea and ensuring it aligns with our ethos of inclusivity and innovation. The digital fashion products that we create focus on the specifics, manually adapting fabric properties to create a truly responsive garment. It reflects our dedication to detail. We’re committed to democratising fashion design, making it achievable for anyone inspired to explore their creativity. Our platforms and tools are designed to lower entry barriers, ensuring that the realm of digital fashion is open to all.

We also have our IRL X URL academy that’s teaching those to be a part of this new movement. It’s free and open to all and is on a first come first served basis with places for those within the LGBTQI+ community and those who are POC or from disadvantaged backgrounds. These groups always have the first priority because they are our community and the innovators of our times.

Some of your best known work has involved the metaverse, but I know your remit goes beyond that. How would you describe the environment that you work in, and what role does the Institute play in that space?

We do not work solely within metaverse spaces; in fact, we are building a reality where physical and digital are together and support one another; IRL x URL in unison. We’re not just navigating this space; we’re actively shaping it. The IoDF was founded by us to re-frame the system; to drive innovation through our practice to rewrite and restructure a broken system. As co-founders, we built our business around the ethos of wanting to create space for marginalised communities to thrive and be represented.

The metaverse hype is now over, so we can really get back to discuss what’s important: community, human interactions, diversity issues in fashion and sustainability. Basically how can we put the people and the planet first? This approach not only fosters a more inclusive and ethical fashion ecosystem but also positions us as architects of a new digital culture, where creativity and innovation flourish unrestricted.

Queer folks are often at the heart of innovation – and this feels no different. How important is it for you both to have LGBTQIA+ people at the centre of what you’re creating?

There has always been cultural osmosis directly from queer narratives historically. The once others and outsiders really drive the heart of fashion and innovation. We are a queer team, our values run through the hiring process. An important part of the work is pushing characterisation to representation, we believe that the voices of the individuals from the cultural background should be the voices within the design process as that has not been happening. For example, working with Daz3D to create a non-binary digital double avatar is a testament to this commitment, where we developed a digital double avatar that allowed for dual sliding genitalia, and gender-non-conforming compatible digital clothing. 

Users shouldn’t have to demand to be included; the industry should already be there for them, ready and waiting. Centring LGBTQI+ individuals in our creative process is paramount as their experiences, often marked by a rich tapestry of resilience and innovation, infuse our projects with unparalleled depth and perspective. By amplifying these voices, we’re not just creating digital fashion; we’re nurturing a space where every identity is celebrated and valued. 

Where do you see the current ‘traditional’ fashion industry in 10 years time?

In a decade, we envision a fashion industry transformed by its embrace of digital and sustainable practices. No one brand can fix fashion’s sustainability problem, but together as an industry, we can make conscious steps towards a cleaner future. The integration of AR (Augmented Reality), VR (Virtual Reality), and on-demand production will blur the lines between digital and physical fashion, leading to a more inclusive, diverse, and environmentally responsible industry.

Learn more about The Institute of Digital Fashion IRL x URL Learning Academy here and follow the IoDF on Instagram. 

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